Red Mountain Pass
The San Juan Mountains are the largest contiguous area
above 10000 feet in the 48 states and Red Mountain Pass is
the highest paved pass through these mountains. Add to
that a steep effective average grade and expectations are
pretty high. The "contiguous 10000 feet
statistic" gives a good insight into the true nature
of this pass. This is a plateau as well as an alpine
range, often a set of sculptured peaks set on top of a
table with cliffs of varied steepness draping over the
plains below. The summit of Red Mountain Pass is a pretty
spot with good views in two directions. But despite its
altitude, within half a mile of the summit, the road still
follows the headwaters of the Uncompaghre River in open
forest. A large concentration of mines between various
piles of red hint at the history of the route. The most
ruggedly vertical part of the pass is further down, the
Uncompaghre Canyon into Ouray. It is also the part that
was historically, the most difficult to overcome.

click on profile for more detail
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01.(7000ft,mile00) START-END NORTH
ALTERNATE: Ridgway turnoff on US550.
02.(7800ft,mile11) START-END NORTH downtown Ouray
03.(7890ft,mile11) turnoff to Imogene Pass trail is
on right
04.(8870ft,mile15) turnoff to Denver and Engineer
Passes is on left
05.(9700ft,mile19) Ironton Park, turnoff to
Corkscrew Pass is on left
06.(11100ft,mile23) TOP: Red Mountain Pass
07.(11080ft,mile24) turnoff to Black Bear Pass is on
right
08.(10100ft,mile29) turnoff to Ophir Pass is on
right
09.(9440ft,mile31) turnoff to South Mineral Creek
Road is on right
10.(9290ft,mile34) START-END SOUTH: downtown
Silverton
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Approaches
From North. The profile begins back in Ridgway to
show the maximum elevation gain. The pass road starts in
Ouray. Red Mountain Pass starts with its main act. After a few
introductory switchbacks above Ouray follows the traversal of
Uncompaghre Canyon, using several short shelf road
constructions. These have as much exposure to straight
dropoffs immediately next to a narrow shoulder, as one is ever
going to see in Colorado. At the head of the canyon the road
enters a new landscape. You could call it a plateau, if it
wasn't for a second layer of peaks reaching skywards from this
level. So many Red Mountains line the road, that the task of
naming them has been reduced to numbering.. After an extended
relatively flat section the road steepens again and climaxes
in a flurry of valley switchbacks between a mess of historic
and modern mining ruins and tailing piles. The top is slightly
below treeline with good views in both directions.
From South. A steady climb following Mineral Creek
offers glimpses up sidevalleys, ragged ridges reaching over
the top of wooded slopes. Near Chattanooga ( today, only a
name on the map ) there is one one of these long, large radius
switchback curves that seem like a momentum gathering device
to catapult the traveler to the top. The old mining debris in
the valley slowly takes on toylike characteristics from above
and a the full dimensions of a series of cascades at the end
of the large radius switchback becomes apparent. After that
the remainder of the climb is surprisingly straight. The real
switch backs are just over the top on the other side.

Tours
Dayrides. A out and back ride from Silverton to
Ouray, crossing the pass twice measured 54 miles and 5500 feet
of climbing in 5 hours, using an onboard Cateye 100A cycle
computer.
One week road Tour. The ride over Red Mountain Pass can
be the finishing touch of a one week circle over the best San
Juan passes. When traversing the route in the described
direction the most scenic part of the pass, the Uncompaghre
Canyon to Ouray, really passes by too quickly, just a downhill
blur. The previous passes crossed on such a circle are, in
order of crossing, Dallas Divide
, Lizard Head Pass, Hesperus
Pass, and Coal Bank/
Molas Divide passes. The day's ride from Silverton to
Montrose measured 65 miles, using an old rubber band driven
odometer. Your mileage may vary. The circle closes a few miles
earlier, in the town of Ridgway.
One Week (Very) Large Group ride: (<Molas
Divide/ Coal Bank Pass|Wolf
Creek Pass>): The Denver Posts "Ride the
Rockies" cyclists have crossed Red Mountain Pass only
three times between 86 and 05. But then again, the San Juans
are a long ways from Denver, and one end of the tour is
usually anchored close to the Denver Post's Denver.
Extended Road Tour. A longer tour heading in a
southwesterly direction can connect to the week long
circle described above. In the other direction, east or north,
the route continues over Cerro
Summit.

History
The story of Red Mountain Pass are snapshots in time.
Between the horse drawn wagon and the internal combustion
engine, conditions conspired to focus attention on getting a
new mode of transportation through the narrows of Uncompaghre
Canyon. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't.
Hayden Survey(<Molas/
Coal Bank Pass|Lizard Head
Pass>): Little has been added to the maps produced by
the Hayden Survey. During its second year of exploration,
1874, the Hayden Survey set its eyes on the San Juan Mountains
and Baker Park, as the Silverton area was known. A major
objective was to find a route into the isolated mining
settlement that was suitable for heavy mining equipment.
Several primitive routes lead into the mountain fortress. All
of them had their own peculiar set of unsolvable difficulties.
They had entered the area from the east over Cinnamon
Pass. A trail following Animas canyon from the south was
considered impassable. Also to the south, a trail
existed following the east side of Sultan Mountain, the
general area of today's Molas
Pass road. It too was considered useless for mining
equipment. Maybe the north had a better access route ? Their
progress up Mineral Creek to Red Mountain Pass presented no
problems. It was descending the other side to the box Canyon
above Ouray, that geographer Rhoda concluded flatly :
"The canyon bars all egress". There was only one
general direction they hadn't tried yet, west. The route lead
them to an unnamed crossing above Trout Lake descending to Lizard
Head Pass, a stretch that would be better described as a
mountaineering route than a "suitable for heavy mining
equipment". And so Red Mountain Pass alluded the Hayden
Survey as a feasible connection between Ouray and Silverton of
the 1870s, although the motivationto find a route, in
terms of potential profit for others, was high enough.
The Leadville Boom (<Cinnamon
Pass|Stony Pass>) also
Otto Mears Passes (<Owl Creek
Pass|Hesperus Pass>): It
took until 1882 for motivation to mount to the point of
action. In 1882 construction began on a toll road over Red
Mountain Pass. The motivation was provided in the form of gold
at the nearby Yankee Girl Mine. The fact that both Silverton
and Ouray were about to have functioning rail heads, courtesy
of the Denver Rio Grande Railway, also improved mining
feasibility.
Ouray grew and so did it's wealth. Insuring that
thriving Ouray had toll roads on which goods could flow in and
out on, was the business of Otto Mears. To the west his
earlier toll road additions over Blue
Mesa Summit and Cerro
Summit connected to Mears roads further east. The
transportation situation to the south however could stand some
improvement. A very bad trail followed lower Uncompaghre
Canyon. One fork lead to Mineral Point, then followed a route
east of Red Mountain Pass, connecting with the Engineer
Pass - Denver Pass road
between Lake City and Silverton. The other fork connected with
mines on both sides of Red Mountain, and it was this fork that
Otto Mears elected as his next project in 1882. Called the
Rainbow Route, its most difficult part was the section of the
Uncompaghre Box canyon, costing 10000 dollars a mile, an
unheard of amount for that time.
When the road reached the top, surprisingly Red Mountain
Pass provided a connection between Ouray and the color
excuding mines at its top, rather than Silverton, which was
located on the easier side of the pass. The town of Silverton
begrudgingly corrected this situation by hiring old Otto to
build the missing connection in 1884, and voila a Red Mountain
Pass road. Otto operated the toll road until 1891, the same
year that he completed a railroad that effectively reduced the
need for the toll road as through road.
Railroads(<Hagermann
Pass|Hesperus Pass>).
Old Otto also plays the leading part in the next chapter
about Red Mountain Pass, the time when it was almost
crossed by a railroad - almost, but not quite. To
explain how much it would have meant to lay tracks down that
last remaining link between Ironton and Ouray, we have to
paint a picture around it.
We last met the Denver Rio Grande railroad (DRG) laying
rails to Aspen to thwart competition from the Colorado Midland
railroad across Hagerman Pass.
Meanwhile the DRG had extended its Aspen service through
Glenwood Canyon to Grand Junction, converting it to standard
gauge in the process. As already mentioned above a spur from
the new mainline also reached into Ouray. On the other side of
the mountains the DRG San Juan branch in the San Luis Valley
had grown too, reaching all the way up into the isolation of
Silverton through the previously considered useless Animas
Canyon route. The isolation of Baker Park was relegated to
history with one set of iron rails that reached this el Dorado
even before Ouray was connected to rails on the other end.
Railroad topography was starting to resemble connected
circles. The tentacles reaching up valleys were beginning to
be the exception rather than the rule. But one critical part
of a circle was missing, the connection between Ouray and
Silverton. Traveling from Ouray to Silverton on rails would
have required a detour through Antonito, Alamosa, Buena Vista
and Grand Junction, just to mention a few. The distance by
wagon road between the two stations was 26 miles.
The idea that these 26 miles needed to be connected by
rails was hatched by toll road operator Otto Mears, whose
stature had grown far above toll road owner at this point. He
was now in his 50s and slowly started selling his empire. 170
miles of toll road were still under his control, and 26 of
them just happened to go over Red Mountain Pass, the missing
link between Silverton and Ouray. Otto no longer had the
ambition to build an industrial railroad empire. Instead he
was at the point of selling whatever empire was left. The
rails between Silverton and Ouray became his fixation, a point
to prove just to show that it could be done.
He named his dream the Silverton Railroad, and during the
summer of 1888 he successfully laid rails from Silverton over
Red Mountain Pass at a spot a hundred feet above today's road.
Unlike the toll road he had built earlier, this time he began
building from the easier side of the pass, the Silverton side.
He called his crossing Sheridan Pass. The problem he faced
after that was the same problem that the Hayden Survey under
Franklin Rhoda faced 14 years earlier, how to get down
Uncompaghre Canyon - only this time it was with a train
instead of a survey party. Looking back from Ironton at the
time, we would already see switchbacks zig zaging between
tailing piles, and turntables busy shunting train to mines at
Vanderbilt, Yankee Girl, Corkscrew Gulch and Joker Tunnel.
Otto considered an electric or a cog railway to cross the
gulch. But costs were too high for such a low population
density. The line serviced mines from Silverton, but remained
stuck on the precipe above Ouray. A distance of 8 miles with a
17 percent grade remained without rails. To take the train to
the other side still required a detour through Antonito,
Alamosa, Buena Vista, Aspen, Grand Junction, Ridgway and
Ouray.
The failure irked Otto Mears. In his mind Silverton and
Ouray still needed a rail connection that does not require a
detour through Buena Vista and Grand Junction. If not over Red
Mountain Pass, then perhaps the round about way over Lizard
Head Pass Pass. His next attempt would be longer than the
Red Mountain Pass route, but still considerably shorter than
the Grand Junction - Buena Vista option. Lizard Head Pass was
the biggest obstacle on this route, but not the first one. The
story continues with a minor often neglected crossing near
Durango, Hesperus Pass.
Even though Otto Mear's Silverton railroad was a financial
failure it was a success in other terms. Those 16 miles of
railroad proved to be by far the most fabled, irresponsibly
quaint, written about miles in Colorado railroad history. What
other rail journey had a sleeper car on a two hour run
covering 16 miles ?
Modern Highways (<Rabbit
Ears Pass|Molas Pass/
Coal Bank Pass>): Enter the automobile. Red Mountain
Pass became the first section of the "Million Dollar
Highway" Route, a name that still is used in tourist
brochures today. The name dates back to the time between the
wars, 1921, when names like the "Victory Highway",
"the Triangle Route" and the "Old Trails
Road" were part of the vocabulary. The Million Dollar
Highway route also included Molas
Divide/ Coalbank Pass. In the following three years
highway work resulted in a one way gravel road with turnouts,
a significant improvement over what was before. By 1939 the
road was kept open during the winter. Today's road is located
above the old Mears Toll road.
| Red Mountain Pass (Summary)
Elevation/Highest Point: 11100 ft
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Northern Approach:
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from Ridgway (7000ft)
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4100ft
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23miles
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from Ouray (7900ft)
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3200ft
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13miles
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Western Approach:
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from Silverton (9290ft)
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1810ft
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10+1/2miles
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