Blue Mesa Summit
This pesky, not so little hill
shares appearance and size with many other less
famous mesa crossings, summits that have never
deserved the honor of a name. Blue Mesa Summit
made a name for itself in history as "son of a
bitch hill", a label that for some reason cannot
be found on today's maps. The history of Blue Mesa
Summit is distinguished from these other nameless
summits by having countless unlucky travelers sent
over it. For 150 years the Black Canyon of the
Gunnison has forced travelers to cross Blue Mesa
Summit rather than it. This remains until today
and includes bicyclists.
Blue Mesa Summit often comes as a surprise to
cycle tourists along US50. The road, basically
following the Gunnison River on its south side, is
forced to detour around the jagged Black Canyon
area and in the process climb this broad, sage
covered plateau. The summit is not named on
National Forest, highway or topo maps. But it is
marked with a sign at the top.
click on profile for more detail
|
1.(7530ft,mile00)
START-FINISH EAST: US50 crosses Blue Mesa
Reservoir from north to south.
2.(7580ft,mile03) camper community of
Sapinero
3.(8500ft,mile11) first summit
4.(8300ft,mile13) low point between
summits, junction with dirt road ascending
East Fork of the Little Blue River.
5.(8704ft.mile16) TOP: second summit
6.(6880ft,mile25) START-FINISH WEST:
settlement of Cimarron. Route
continues down Cimarron Canyon on the
right
7.(6700ft,mile25) START-FINISH WEST: low
point in Cimarron Canyon before road
ascents to Gunnison Dam. |
Approaches
From East. Starting the climb on a
already hot summer day, it actually gets hotter
with increasing elevation, instead of colder. The
reason is the disappearing cooling influence of
Curecanti Reservoir below. One short view of the
canyon appears on this side. After that the
scenery is dominated by sagebrush and industrial
strength campgrounds, featuring camping with
satellite dishes and rigs that expand like bloated
whales. The wide shoulder disappears as the road
approaches the first summit point (July/05).
A short descent leads into the small forested
canyon of Blue Creek, cut in the same dark
volcanic rock as nearby Black Canyon. But the
creek flows in the opposite direction as the
bicycle rolls. That situation cannot last very
long. As the road climbs to its second summit it's
back in the sage. There the rounded dessert
plateau landscape of the western slope comes into
view far below.
From West. (also described upwards) The
profile starts slightly off US50, where the
Cimarron Canyon Road crosses the Gunnison River.
This is a short detour when traveling on US50. But
there is an interesting railroad display down
there, actually more interesting than anything the
summit has to offer. More details below in the
history section.
A steady climb leaves the town of Cimarron. There
is one other small store between the town and the
summit, before the road reaches a broad dip
between two hills. Looking back one can make out a
few peaks in the distant San Juan mountains as
well as the enormous plateau, through which the
Gunnison River cut its famous canyon.
view onto Gunnison River and the road cut of
Black Mesa summit(u)
Dayride with this point as highest summit
COMPLETELY PAVED:
(<Slumgullion
Pass|Black
Mesa Summit>)
Blue Mesa Summit x2: Curecanti Needles area
<> Blue Mesa Summit <> Cimarron: 50.4
miles with 3780 feet of climbing in 4.09 hours
(VDO MC1.0 m3:5.7.19)
A Day on a Three Day Tour:
COMPLETELY PAVED:
(<Jones Summit
x2 |)
Blue Mesa Summit , Cerro Summit:
day3: Montrose > Cerro Summit > Blue Mesa
Summit > Gunnison: 68 miles (mech odo
m1.93.5.31).
Notes: includes a few "around town miles". This
was a Heartcycle Tour, but includes a few
additional miles over unpaved roads on day2.
Click the first pass in the list for an overview
of the tour.
A Day on a 15 Day Tour with this point as
highest summit:
( < Red
Mountain Pass | Black Mesa s(u )>
)
Blue Mesa Summit , Cerro Summit
: campsite in Black Canyon NM > Cerro
Summit > Blue Mesa Summit > Sapinero:
50.6miles (mech Odo r1:83.7.9).
Notes: measured with a mechanical Odometer. The
previous day was an out and back ride through
Black Canyon of the Gunnison NM. The day before
that crossed Red Mountain Pass.
DRG railroad display on Cimarron Canyon Road
History
Blue Mesa Summit has a long history as detour
around the Black Canyon, but not quite as long and
extensive as the next summit to the west, Cerro Summit
(even though lower in top elevation). More
happened deep below than on Blue Mesa's
nondescript top. This stretch of the canyon laid
the most convincing reasons on practically
motivated travelers and traffic planners to exit
the canyon while they still can. The western end
of the profile, Cimarron Canyon, provided the last
chance to emerge from the depths and travel trough
the sage instead.
Gunsion Rail Survey (<Cochetopa Pass|Cerro Summit>):
...And everything was going so well on top of
Cochetopa Pass. But then Captain Gunnison's
assessment for a transcontinental railroad over
Cochetopa Pass, following the Gunnison river
westwards took a nosedive. Now he had to deal with
the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. He would have
much preferred the canyon route over crossing Blue
Mesa. It was later, inside what is now the
national park, that two of his wagons overturned,
and the plans for a transcontinental railline also
were destroyed. Still, the canyon would bear
Gunnison's name in the future
Otto Mears Passes (<Pinos Pass|Cerro Summit>),
also the San Juan Mining Boom. Otto Mears
acquired the route over the smmit as part of his
toll road kingdom shortly after 1875. In 1881
settlers poured over the pass to live on Ute
lands, vacated as a result of the mining boom in
the San Juans.
Railroads (<Loveland
Pass|Cerro
Summit>): The town of Gunnison was the
second pot of gold won by the Denver Rio Grand
Railway (DRG). Just as in the race to Leadville,
the DRG's rails beat out the Denver South Park
railroad's (DSP) more mountainous route. But both
railways managed lay spur lines from Gunnison to
service the surrounding mines. No additional
passes needed to be crossed to do this. The DRG
serviced Crested Butte and its anthracite coal
deposits, while the DSP built a branch line
partly up Ohio Pass
to service its mines.
In 1882 the DRG worked on expanding its line from
Gunnison to Salt Lake City. That was the occasion
for a railway through the Gunnison canyon to
become reality after all, albeit not all the way,
and only for a short time. While the DSP faced its
biggest nightmares on the mountain passes, the DRG
didn't have a picknick in the canyons either. Its
most difficult venture up to this point had been
the line through the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas.
Yet the last mile of rail through this part of the
Black Canyon cost the railroad more than then
entire right of way through the Royal Gorge.
Pioneering work in blasting techniques was done
here. Extra long fuses were deployed when workers
on scaffolding lowered into the canyon to set
charges. While the extra long fuses were burning
the workers would be hoisted out of the canyon.
Four months were needed to complete 15 miles
of track by 1043 men. The source does not specify
if the 1043 men refers to before the blasting
started or after it was finished.
The rails burrowed through the canyon, exiting
along the west end of the profile provided on top.
Here began the climb through Cimarron Canyon on
its way up Cerro
Summit. An engine with two cars sitting on a
partially restored bridge mark the spot today. The
National Park Service also provides a visitor
center complete with a park ranger, who can answer
any burning historical questions that just can't
wait any longer to be answered.
In 1971 the canyon was viewed as being more
appropriate for water storage than a railline. The
Morrow Point Dam submerged the canyon upstream
from the point where the rails exited.
Cycling - Ride the Rockies (<Loveland Pass|Cerro Summit>):
This summit has seen more than its share of the
Denver Post's "Ride the Rockies" cyclists labor to
its top. Even though never given the recognition
of a pass label on their official map, the summit
has been on the tours of 1987 89 92 97 99 02 and
05, only once less than the pass that is most
associated with this tour, Loveland Pass. All of
these stages grouped Blue Mesa Summit with Cerro
Summit.
Blue
Mesa Summit (summary)
Summit/highest elevation: 8704 ft
|
Eastern Approach:
|
|
|
drop |
from Blue
Mesa Reservoir (7530ft)
|
1174ft~358m
|
15+1/2miles~25km
|
~200ft~60m
|
from
Sapinero (7580ft)
|
1124ft~343m
|
12miles~19km
|
~200ft~60m
|
from low point after
intermediate summit (8300ft)
|
404 ft~123m
|
2 miles~3.2km
|
|
Western Approach
|
|
|
|
low point
in Cimarron Canyon (6700ft) |
2004ft~611m
|
9+1/2miles~32.5km
|
|
from Cimarron (6880ft)
|
1824ft~556m
|
9 miles~14.5km
|
|
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