Mosquito Pass
When approaching Leadville for
the first time, the Mosquito Range looks like a
long, straight comb. The vertical ribs of the
mountain range stand out like the teeth on a comb.
The view is impressive first of all, because of
the uninterrupted length of the range, apparently
without any breaks or saddles for roads.
You wouldn't suspect that it contains the highest
pass road in North America, and that it is still
open today. One reason that this pass does not
look as high as it really is, is that Leadville
already lies at 10200 feet. It is really located
on a shoulder of the same range. The valley bottom
is half a thousand feet below Leadville to the
west, and it lends more relief to the panorama of
the Sawatch Range instead.
Back on the east side, Mosquito Pass at 13186ft
has acquired the infamy that comes along with the
superlative of being the highest road, and that
even though it was useful only for a very short
time, and never really was profitable. It is also
interesting to note that just a few miles to the
south of Mosquito Pass, a pass of practically
equal altitude crosses the range, Horseshoe Pass.
Yet hardly anybody knows much about it, or uses
it, mostly because the land surrounding it is
controlled by mining interests. That crossing is
said to have a road on the east side and today no
established trail on the west side.
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01.(10280ft,mile00)
START-END EAST: Alma Junction on Co9 south
of Alma
02.(10450ft,mile03) Park City; another
approach from Alma joins from right
03.(11530ft,mile08) route deviates from
Mosquito Creek by turning left
04.(13186ft,mile10) TOP: Mosquito Pass
05.(10930ft,mile15) profile continues left
down Evans Gulch. But right down little
Evans Gulch also serves as approach
06.(10150ft,mile18) START-END WEST:
Leadville |
Approaches
From West. 7th Ave in Leadville is
a convenient point to start a tour up Mosquito
Pass. From a topographic point of view, you are
already partly up the slopes of the Mosquito
Range. Instead you could start a few hundred feet
lower where the railroad used to discharge its
Leadville bound contingent, still called Leadville
Junction on maps.
Going uphill, 7th Ave in Leadville becomes Evans
Gulch. The extremely smooth graded dirt road goes
past famous mining ruins, crosses the Mineral Belt
bike path and then continues its steady climb past
not quite as much mining destruction as in
adjacent California Gulch. This good road ends
abruptly without warning at the locked gates of
the "Diamond Mine". But looking closely, a remnant
of old, historic track manages to split off this
mining thoroughfare, and humbly crosses a gulch
through lots of rocks, in order to continue the
journey up the mountain range.
The rocky track leads to a major junction at the
saddle with Prospect Mountain. Tracks lead up this
breadloaf shaped mountain, down the even rockier Birdseye
Gulch, and also continue uphill. Soon the
road switches back onto a steep, rocky climb that
can be seen from practically any vantage point in
the valley, as a straight uniform line cutting
across the ridge. Stumbling over the extreme
rockiness of this section, I couldn't help but
think: "Oh well, if it was only really heavily
used for a year, I guess they never got a chance
to improve the surface." With a final right turn
the road arrives at the high saddle. After being
overwhelmed with the view and regathering ones
senses, one notices a memorial stone to Father
Dyer, who carried the mail across the pass,
starting in 1864, often doing this at night so the
snowshoes would not break through.
approaching
summit of Mosquito Pass from American Flats
From East. (also described upwards). A
good all-weather dirt road, which historically
predates the pass road, runs from Alma to Park
City. From here the historic toll road followed
North Mosquito Creek around the north side of
London Mountain, while today's jeep road follows a
steeper course up South Mosquito Creek. Then
a steep climb goes to American Flats and the old
mining ruins of the town of Mosquito. The last
stretch from here to the summit over a shelf road
may be the most picturesque part of the road in my
opinion. This side is considered by many to be not
quite as rocky and steep as the west side.
Dayride with this point as highest summit:
PARTIALLY PAVED / UNPAVED:
Mosquito Pass , Weston
Pass : Fairplay > Co9 north >
Park City > Mosquito Pass > Leadville >
US24 south > Weston Pass > up FR425 >
Weston Pass > US285 back to starting point:
63miles (mech Odo m1:87.9.19).
made it - summit view from Mosquito Pass towards
Leadville
History
Colorado Gold Rush of 1859/60 (<Hoosier Pass|Weston Pass>): It
was the second spring of the Colorado gold rush,
1860, and already some prospectors were ready to
go to extraordinary heights in their search for
gold. Amongst the many gold rush camp routes
radiating out from South Park to the valleys of
the Arkansas, the Blue River and beyond, was a
route to the camp of Buckskin Joe and his
followers. During this year they panned themselves
way above the treeline, higher than any other
prospector had done, up towards Mosquito Pass from
the east side. One can only suppose that one day,
one of them climbed the extra couple of miles to
the top of the ridge and gazed down on what would
be named California Gulch, into the valley of the
Arkansas with the Collegiate Peaks behind it.
A often told story survives from the period
between the early Colorado Gold Rush and the
Leadville Boom Period. One thing that helps keep
it alive, is a memorial looking like a headstone
on top of the the pass. Methodist preacher-
prospector, John L. "father" Dyer crossed the pass
the first time in the call to preach. Prior to
August of 1861 he manned the altar of Mosquito
town on the east side of the pass. Then he started
to also take over the California Gulch mission on
the west side of the pass. That was quite a
crossing, on snowshoes in winter, alone at first.
Then travelers wanted to join him. Apparently
father Dyer was not averse to the physical
challenge, because three years later he signed up
to carry the winter mail over the pass, a distance
of 37 miles.
Hayden Survey: In 1873 Hayden's intrepid
map makers, painters and explorers surveyed the
area. When one of the results of this work was
released, the atlas of Colorado, it showed
Mosquito Pass as highest pass in North America,
13188 feet.
descending into
Leadville from Mosquito Pass
Leadville Boom (<Weston
Pass|Hagerman
Pass>): In October 8/1878 another
story begins. The period when mail was carried
over the pass by foot was irrevocably ended. On
that date the Mosquito Pass Wagon Road Company was
incorporated to build a road over the pass. The
conditions that lead to this development can
readily be deemed logical today. In 1878 Leadville
was booming so loud it was deafening. The
populaction in California Gulch (above today's
Leadville) grew from a few hundred to 6000. In
that year a telegraph line was also laid across
the pass, which also helped winter travelers in
not venturing off course. Another motivating
factor in taking on construction costs for such a
road was that the new section to be constructed
was relatively short. There was already a fairly
good road a long ways up the east side to the
Mosquito gold camp, just a few miles below the
summit. Also the distance savings for the traveler
would be considerable. The arithmetic looked like
this: From Fairplay to Leadville on the Mosquito
Pass trail was 21 miles, 40 miles over Weston Pass, 72 miles
over Trout Creek
Pass. Mosquito Pass already was used to some
degree, Weston was the most popular, Trout Creek
the winter detour. Another route early Leadville
miners used on rare occasions was a route 5 miles
to the south over Horseshoe Pass, between Mount
Sheridan and Horseshoe Mountain.- But then of
course there was that pesky shelf road section on
the west side.
The new Wagon Road over the pass was already
opened in the spring of next year, 1879. From here
the story only becomes more quickly paced. As
short as father Dyer's story may be, the history
of the Wagon Road is even shorter. Owners were
pleased when 150 outfits a day crossed the pass
that first summer. They were also pleased when a
lack of snow allowed them to collect tolls into
mid December. They were not so pleased in February
of the next year, 1880, when the railroad crossed
Trout Creek Pass
to Buena Vista, a distance of only 35 miles from
Leadville. By August of the same year, two
railroads reached Leadville. The Mosquito Pass
road was closed in 1882, after owners had sunk 30
000 dollars into it. The road was formally
abandoned in 1910.
Outside of its extraordinary height and natural
surroundings, the reason for today's relative
infamy of this road is an event, put on by the
communities of Fairplay and Leadville. It has the
catchy title "Get your Ass over the Pass", and the
ass, being referred to is a donkey, or burro. It
was first held in 1949 and is billed as the world
championship burro race.
Cycling: An early mountain biking guide,
published in 1987 mentioned Mosquito Pass as being
suitable for mountain biking in its appendix,
without describing it any further (William L.
Stoehr's: Bicycling the Backcountry).
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