Ut12 summit: Boulder - Capitol
Reef
If there is such a thing as a single
quintessential bicycle touring route through
southern Utah, it is Ut12 in conjunction with a
small part of Ut24. This summit is the highest
point on the route. The panoramas seen from this
route, stretch over vast distances from Navajo
Mountain in Arizona to the exposed magma of the La
Sal and Henry Mountains in eastern Utah. But
crisp, clear autumn weather is necessary to really
see them. But the main attractions are not even
near the summit. Instead the variety of canyon
scenery on the lower approaches are the most
unique characteristics of this route.
Ut12 is not the only way to get to the summit. A
wide variety of long hilly approaches, traversing
canyon country of different characters, lead to
the summit. In addition to the three approaches
mentioned in this page, the Burr Trail ( which is
a dirt road ) also terminates in Boulder, which is
located on the profile below. Since there is more
than a 300 feet rise between Boulder and the
summit on the Burr Trail, it gets its own page.
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1.(5490ft,mile00)
START-END NORTH: Ut24 turnoff to Capitol
Reef NM visitor center
2.(6840ft,mile10) profile turns left
onto Ut12 to Escalante
3.(7100ft,mile15) paved right goes to
Teasdale; profile continues straight
4.(8600ft,mile28) alternate unpaved
approach from South Draw road joins from
left.
5.(9570ft,mile33) double track trail to
Boulder Mountain leaves on right
6.(9591ft,mile33) TOP
7.(6700ft,mile47) START-END ALTERNATE:
town of Boulder and junction with Burr
Trail
8.(6770ft,mile51) dirt road on right
goes to Hell's Backbone Bridge
9.(5220ft,mile61) START-END SOUTH: Ut12
crosses Escalante River
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Principal
Approaches
From East. The Waterpocket Fold ( Capitol
Reef National Monument ) is famous for being
breached by many narrow slot canyons, which show
river courses that existed already prior to the
uplift of the Colorado Plateau. But Capitol Reef
is also breeched by a larger flat bottomed canyon,
from which walls of varying heights rise abruptly.
This is the valley of the Fremont River and also
today's Ut24. Starting in the east, the road
travels through increasingly older rocks, the most
noticeable being the white Navajo Sandstone,
contrasting the later red rock formations like the
Morrison formation.
As the route turns onto Ut12, a number of
overprized gas station strip mall complexes line
the road. Torrey is slightly off route, but also
much more attractive with a large shadow spending
arcade of trees lining the road. Fortunately the 1
mile detour does not hurt. The Ut12 portion of the
climb begins reluctantly after a 90 degree south
and a flat section. Then the road climbs into
dense forest, flattening out periodically, and
opening windows onto the Upper Blue Hills and
Henry Mountains. Compared with other Utah
landscapes, the mountain traversed by this route,
Boulder Mountain, is a rather shapeless affair, a
large bread loaf, but a loaf with a thick German
bakery style crust, a thick black caprock - or
white if there is snow on it. It can be seen
periodically above the upwards curving road. By
the time you reach the summit, you are on eye
level with the more strongly eroded Henry
Mountains. The highest peak there is the 10723ft
Mount Hillers. The top of the road contains a
summit sign with home made appearance, stating an
elevation of 9400ft. However the topo map labels
the same spot with 9591ft. A short dirt path east
leads to several new panoramas, stretching south
from Navajo Mountain in Arizona to the La Sal
Mountains behind the Henrys and the Circle Cliffs
below.
From South. The most interesting canyon
area is the first part of the profile, the Navajo
sandstone slickrock slopes around the Escalante
River and its side canyons. After crossing the
river the road climbs a ridge in a way that
complements the landscape, courtesy of a Civilian
Conservation Corps built road. The ridge road ends
in Boulder and continues on a gently sloping
forested plain. Boulder has a minimum of
provisions that can be relied on without
reservations. The slope picks up gradually leaving
Boulder, then leads to the summit in a large sweep
above treeline. Two overlooks are along the way.
Alternate Approaches
From South: Using a mountain bike you can
also approach the summit via South Draw Road in
Capitol Reef National Monument. The description
begins at the south end of the Slickrock Divide,
more commonly known as the scenic drive in the
monument, also the location of the Capitol Gorge
trailhead. A good dirt road climbs over a small
saddle to a historic ranch. After a stream crossing
the road follows the dry South Draw and slowly
curves northwards. After leaving the stream bed the
path becomes quite rocky and crests at a spot that
could be considered as a separate summit, if there
were an additional way to approach it. This is a
good vantage point onto the reef. But the Henry
Mountains can be glimpsed only through the middle of
a saddle in the reef. The route descends into a
valley, each side a different color, later crosses a
small stream running in a verdant green pasture,
then climbs on intermittently rocky surface to what
must be one of the world's most scenic cattle
corrals. (There is a photo on the picture page).
From here on the surface is smooth, but the grade
picks up considerably. The elevation begins to
exceed the top of the reef and the Henry take their
place as the eastern backdrop. The dirt road joins
Ut12 at a level spot. Turing right makes a nice loop
in its own right. Turning left continues to the
summit.
Dayrides.
PARTIALLY PAVED / UNPAVED:
A 6 shaped ride, beginning in Capitol Reef
National Park, continuing over the Slickrock Divide
to pick up the South Draw Road approach to this
summit, continuing up to the top, then turning
around to go back to the starting point via the
principal eastern approach of this summit measured
68 miles with 6600ft of climbing in 6:36 hours
(m3:06.09.22).
A loop ride beginning in the Torrey area, going
over the FR154
summit: Posey Lake Road continuing over Hell's
Backbone Road summit(u) to Boulder,
returning to the starting point via Ut12 summit:
Boulder - Capitol Reef measured 114 mikes with
11510ft of climbing in 10:5 hours. This includes
about 5 miles and 500ft climbing used to access
the loop (m3:06.09.23).
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