Tiliacher Joch
Tilianer Joch is an old trading
route between what is now Italy and Austria. It
also played a role in WW1. It is now designated
as an international border crossing mountain
bike route, at least on the Austrian side. Some
large scale maps show the name Ponzescharte at
this location. That is a 400m higher walking
path, that also serves as climbing access. This
is one of the more exciting border crossings and
requires a short push section.
photo
page
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01.(km00,1390m) START-END
NORTH: Obertilliach
02.(km01,1370m) low point crossing
stream
03.(km09+1/2,2094m) TOP: Tiliacher Joch
04.(km21+1/2,1040m) START-END SOUTH
ALTERNATE: junction wtih SR355 in
Osteria alle Alpi
05.(km28,910m) START-END SOUTH: Sankt
Stephan (Santo Stefano di Cadore) |
Approaches
From North. A narrow, paved path heads
downhill across the valley from Obertilliach. You
can make out the pass from the main road, by
visually following a powerline up Obertilliacher
valley to below a block shaped mountain, the Ponze
at 2599m. The powerline then goes to the right of
the block shaped mountain. The Tiliacher Joch goes
to the left.
The paved path first decends to cross the stream
Gailbach. It does so with a few curves to a wooden
bridge, passing a cucifix. The path now climbs
along along a small mountain stream,
intermittently steeply. The surface is smooth
crushed, compacted rock/dirt, that drains so well
that it is usually dry even it rained cats and
dogs the night before. The mountain Ponce
intermittently appears between the trees. I is
possible to meet a slow moving tractor or car on
the path, which carries supplies to a hut. The
path passes a high lake with a first building.
This is not the (hut) Ponzehuette. Here the trees
thin out. Now sharp switchbacks make their way up
above treeline towards the Ponzehuette. A very
short distance below this second hut a large sign
points the way left to the "international border
crossing mountain bike route" over the Tiliacher
Joch. More switchbacks, this time on a rougher
single track follow. You cross a gate, which
designates the next section as "Schiebestrecke"
(push your bike route), and five minutes later
voila the summit. A hiking path following along
the top of the range, also leading to the Ponze
Scharte (2363m) crosses at the summit. The
difference in the views to north and south is
striking. To the south are dolomite needles, while
to the north the more normally behaved Carniche
alps may be hidden in clouds.
From South. (described downwards). You can
see the road come up from the Italian side. But it
is not immediately apparent how to get down to it.
It is just a few hundred feet. The shortest way is
to stay as low as possible in the gap. But then
you don't see the road. If you traverse along a
faint path to the right you see the road, and also
get to it at a slightly farther point. Rolling
down, you notice that the Italian road surface is
markedly rougher. At the next several junctions I
always took the downhill option, even if the other
options actually may promise more scenery. This is
escpecially true of the first right. Left would
lead to the path shown on picture 8 on the picture
page. Continuing directly down valley, the route
becomes one of those enchanted, intermittently
paved paths switching back and forth between
meadows, or rolling through dense forest that only
exist in the dolomites. There are no vehicles
allowed on these forest roads on the Italian side.
I have been told by the toursist information
center in Obertilliach on the Austrian side, that
this actually includes bicycles, but that nobody
enforces it. A comfortable lazy descent eventually
leads to a whole group of rustic huts and
restaurants that are located in a sort of alpine
dolomite park. Sharp peaks surround a set of dirt
and paved roads with houses loosely spaced in the
meadows. If the objective is to descend further it
is important to stay left at the paved fork in
this park. Although to the right you can
reportedly carry your bike back into Austria over
another pass too.
It seems like passes in the dolomites often have
two parts. The first is the alpine part, followed
by a relaxing roll through the forest. Only
afterwards comes the second part, another large
descent into a deep canyon. This is the case here
too. A cracked, heaving, sloughing, innumerable
patched up road descends into a crack in the
earth, a needle of a rock towering above. The road
follows the valle Visdende to its junction with a
main road. Turning right here the descent
continues intermittently to the town of Campolongo
and San Stefano. The church at the main plaza has
an interesting mural of some hellish scene from
the bible. Turn right to go up paved Kreuzbergpass
(pso di Monte Croce di Comelico).
Dayride.
PARTIALLY PAVED / UNPAVED
Tilliacher Joch , Kreuzberg Pass
, Kartitscher
Sattel: Obertilliach > up the north
side to Tilliacher Joch > down the south side
> Campolongo > Kreuzbergpass >
Innichen (S Candido) > Sillian > Kartitscher
Sattel > sp: 66 miles with 7000ft of climbing
in 6:5 hours (VDO MC1.0 m3:9.6.21).
The last day with different start and end points
on this Extended Tour is on page: Ploeckenpass
History
During the middle ages a feudal boundary ran
along the river in the Lesachtal on the Austrian
side. Following a power dispute, the border was
moved to the top of the ridge. However Italian
speaking people from the south retained grazing
rights and brought their cows over this pass to
graze on what is now the Austrian side.
When Italy declared war on Austria in 1914, WW1
was also fought here. Rifle comandoes kept
Italians at bay against shrapnel and burning
granades, but the village of Obertillian was
vacated. In order to affect the outcome the poeple
of Obertillian vowed to worship and pray and
dedicated a new local holiday for June 19 (called
Herz Jesu Freitag). The holiday was set up to
expire after 20 years, but local authorities have
decided to extend the expiration date regularly to
this date, which explains why all the stores were
closed when I happened to get here.
Highest Point: 2094m
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Northern Approach: |
|
|
from stream crossing
south of Obertiliach (1390m) |
8km |
704m |
Southern Approach: |
|
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from Sankt Stephan
(910m) |
21km |
1184m |
from Osteri alle Alpi
(1040m) |
12+1/2km |
1054m |
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