SP51 Cinque Terre:
Monterosso a Mare(sh) - Manarolo
Riding along the Cinque Terre
terrace road is one of the great scenic
experiences of the Italian Riviera coast. If you
consider all the various sideroads down to the
cinque coastal villages, there are enough climbing
roads to keep you busy for a long long time. You
could also think of these roads as approaches to
summit points on the terrace road. Most of these
would be shoulder summits. I think you would have
to live here to ride all of these possibilities.
However - even just staying on the Cinque Terre
terrace road, the route conveniently divides
itself into two summit points. Coming from the
north, first comes the lower summit point, the
approach starting in La Spezia. It crests, and
then descends to the turnoff to the first village,
Manarolo. From the turnoff the terrace road starts
climbing again and reaches a higher point - the
one described here - before descending again to
the turnoff to Monterosso a Mare. The profile
includes the two descends to the villages at the
coast.
This more northerly part of the Cinque Terre (that
is this summit point) road is quieter, has less
traffic and even better cycling conditions than
the southern part.
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1.(10m,00.0km)
START-END EAST: beach in Monterosso a Mare
2.(340m,05.6km) profile turns right onto
Cinque Terre road
3.(540m,5.5km) Foce de Termine, route
stays right at this intersection
4.(550m,9.7km) TOP: highest point of
altitude
5.(470m,11.6km) earstern turnoff to
Vernazza
6.(470m,17.0km) western turnoff to
Vernazza and Corniglia
7.(180m,23.6km) profile turns right, from
Cinque Terre road to Riomaggionr
8.(20m,24.9km) START-END WEST:
Riomaggiore, western side; the last part
of this is a footpath
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Approaches
From West. (described
upwards) Before you can ride this upwards, you
have to ride it downwards, and it may be difficult
to leave this small, artfully sculpted beach with
its monuments, natural and man made, its model
like railroad burrowing through the village like
an earthworm. And for some it may be hard to leave
its restaurants. This last point is, not from my
own experience, but what I observed in others.
This place is tiny. But I found it impossible to
leave before I had walked up to the castle tower
on a protruding rock. This rock acts like a rock
curtain, separating the viewsheds for this beach,
from the other part of town, on the other side of
the mountain, and I just had to see what was over
there.
But there is plenty to focus attention on this
side too. Through the middle of this beach in an
amphitheater runs a railroad, emerging out of the
mountain on one side. Only a handful of railroad
cars ever see daylight at the same time, before
disappearing again in the tunnel on the opposite
side. The tracks along the beach run over a
bridge, which doubles as a building for tourist
businesses. Automobiles have no place in this
scene. They had to be abandoned (parked) next to
the road, 700ft above. On a bicycle you can ride
into this magic little space.
Now for the actual riding part, upwards - leaving
Monterosso a Mare up towards the Cinque Terra
road. the first part is very steep. But I didn't
have time to really notice because I was
preoccupied stopping numerous times, to see how
this magic beach space looks from above. Even when
you reach the part of the road where the cars are
allowed to move again, there really are only very
few. The road soon becomes regular width and
passes through two short tunnels before joining
SP36. After a short distance the profiled route
stays right (it stays on the mediterranean side),
turning onto SP71. You need an altimeter to figure
out the actual summit point. But it is located
soon after the turnoff.
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From East (described downwards) Taking the
next right back down to the town Venazza still
makes this same point the highest point on the
profile. Heading down towards Venazza there are
some nice birdseye views only a few hundred feet
after the turnoff. But I didn't actually see them
until I climbed back up, because -paradoxically-
that's the direction they face, and sometimes you
have to watch the road too. Venazza seems to be a
quieter village than Monterosso or Manarolo. But
during my visit, this was not surprising because
the lower part of the road was closed because of a
landslide.
Back up on the terrace road, it stays at about
the same level and then descends towards the coast
ever so slowly, delivering one great view after
another. I did not try the next descend to
Corniglia for time reasons. The turnoff to
Manarolo is much lower than the to the previous
villages, only about 100m above sealevel. Many
more tourists frequent this town. Many arrive by
train and emerge from the underground railroad
station, to wander around the church and copious
amount of small houses, squeezed into a tiny space
between two cliffs.
Dayride with this point as highest
summit:
COMPLETELY PAVED:
SP51 Cinque Terre: Manarolo - Monterosso a
Mare x2 , SP51 Cinque Terre: Vernazza -
Manarola(sh) , SP370Cinque
Terre: La Spezia - Manarola s(u) : La
Spezia > SP51 Cinque Terre: La Spezia -
Manarola > Manarola << SP51 Cianue Terre:
Manarola - Monterosso > Monterosso a Mare
<< SP51 Cinque Terre: Vernazza - Monterosso
a Mare > turnaround point several hundred feet
above Vernazza > SP370 La Spezia - Manarola
> back to starting point in La Spezia with
several km of grocery shopping detour: 64.3miles
with 6294ft of climbing in 6:33hrs (Garmin etrex30
14.5.28)
Notes: basically this is an out and back ride
between La Spezia and Monterosso a Mare, and
taking sidetrips to whatever Cinque Terre
Villages that seemed the most interesting.
The last day with different start and endpoints
on this tour was: SP10
Castelnuovo di Garfagnana - Cerrovezzo
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