Passo del Vestito
The first view of the Alpi Apuani mountains can be very
striking. I had such a view when approaching from the Lucca
area. From certain angles this range sticks out of the
landscape, almost like a coin stuck in the ground. They make
a rugged contrast to the surrounding, more rounded mountains
of the Apennin. This is a hint of the special geological
forces at work here.
The reason that these mountains stand out is thought to be a
fairly unique geologic process. The Italian boot is located
on or near plate boundaries. But some of these plates are
very small and at the mercy of the larger plates, that
surround them. Consequently movement along these small plate
boundaries sometimes changes direction, and the Italian boot
sometimes kicks forward, and sometimes it moves back
(geologically speaking). When this change takes place,
mountain building happens along the plate boundary in a
different way (sometimes called pullback mountain building),
and the curious looking Alpi Apuani are the result.
The Apuani Alps are not part of the european alps, the same
way that the California Alps or the Japanese Alps are not
part of the european alps. Mostly they are grouped together
with the Apennin mountains. But really the Alpi Apuani
Mountains are in a category by themselves.
Another special thing about this pass are the stone
quarries, which give the landscape with its mountains a
cubist look - almost like a painting by Picasso. There is a
peak in the picture, but there are cubes of mountain missing
at many locations. The marble from this area has been mined
for centuries for use in cathedrals and palaces. Even today
the majority of tourists come to look at the quarries and
their nondescript chunks of rock, rather than to look at the
mountains and their amazing hilltowns.
... which brings up a third specialty about this pass, which
just may be the most striking: the series of villages
between Imperia and the summit on the western approach.
START-END EAST: turnoff to Castelnuovo from mainroad
2.(570m,14.6km) eastern end of Isola Santa
3.(919m,21.3km) entrance first tunnel
4.(929m,21.8km) exit first tunnel
5.(1056m,23.1km) TOP: entrance summit tunnel
6.(1020m,23.8km) exit summit tunnel
7.(380m,34.2km) road passes below Antona
8.(330m,37.2km) road passes Antagnana
9.(60m,44.6km) START-END WEST: Massa: jct: Via Giacomo
Puccini - Via Antonio Pacinotti in center
From East. This is the peaceful side of
the pass. After Castelnuovo the road climbs gently along the
stream Turrite Secca in a curving tunnel of green foliage. The
grade picks up noticeably where the first view of a vertical
peak ahead comes into sight. How is the road going to get across
this, was my first thought.
But that is a question for later. For now the calm quiet of
this approach is just underlined by a a church and a group of
old slate roofed houses around a lake: Isola Santa. The fact
that this seems to be a damned lake with power generation
doesn't intrude into the feeling of ancientness.
After a few more turns the size of the wall of mountains to
the north is demonstrated repeatedly. But the road remains in
the narrow valley bottom. Even further up the road in Arni,
there is still room for trees in the narrow v shaped canyon,
together with a stylish church tower and an anti war memorial.
Unlike "war memorials" these mostly depict a fallen
young soldier with a dying look on his face, and a loved one
There are quite a few dark tunnels along the route, the
longest on top. But they are not so long and dark that one has
to fear loosing orientation. Hundreds of bicycles seem to pass
through here on the weekends without lights.
From West. It does not really
become apparent that this is the top until the road exits the
almost 1km long tunnel, and presents a dazzling panorama in
brand new daylight. It is immediately apparent that this is
anything but a wilderness. There are chunks of peaks missing.
The amazing thing is, that somebody found it necessary to climb
this high into vertical territory, just to carve out a piece of
rock and cart it back to the valley to make houses, statues and
cathedrals from it.
The road rolls downwards, and unlike the other side,
traverses along a side ridge, making two more short tunnels
necessary - more to come further down. The Mediterranean sea
draws ever closer, as long ramps zig zag further down towards
Massa. But the reason for the most stops on my ride were still
ahead. Their names are Antona, Altagnana and Panana. The three
church towers with their respective villages clustered around
them make for an ever changing scenic arrangement, and the road
does its best to deliver all sides, and that includes from above
and from below.
With decreased distance to Massa, the amount of cars parked
at the entrances to the old towns increases drastically,
symbolizing the general increase in traffic. However, I rode
this on a Saturday and I saw more bicycles than cars, or maybe
roughly the same amount, if you count the parked cars.
Down in Massa signs draw you toward the "Mare". But
my own route headed south eastwards along the base of the
WW2: A part along the road on the west side was part
of the Gothic Line. This line of concrete bunkers, barbed wire
and artillery positions stretched across northern Italy from
Rimini to La Spezia. It was erected by Nazi German forces in
1944. Even though by this time the front in France had become
more important, the offensive by the allies in Italy was not
withdrawn. But the amount of soldiers and resources was
decreased. By August 1944 Germany and Italy were plagued by more
partisan forces, that favored the allies. Most of the fighting
along the line was done further east. The special thing here is
due this fact. Along Passo Vestito some of the relics from this
battle line still exist without being destroyed.
Dayride with this point as highest summit:
Passo del Vestito , Passo de
Lucese : Borgo a Mozzano > Castelnuovo di Garfagnana
> Passo del Vestito > Massa > Montignoso >
Pietrasanta > Camaiore > Passo de Lucese > Convale >
back to starting point: 79.1miles with 6174ft of climbing in
6:46hrs (Garmin etrex 30: m4:14.4.24).
The last day with different start and end points is on page: Passo