Baldy Pass
Shell Canyon on the west side of
Granite Pass
is the scenically most exciting paved climb in the
Bighorn Mountains - in my opinion. But, the west
side of Baldy Pass is the steepest, and with that
the hardest climb - and that is not just an
opinion.
Most US roads, that were built during the popular
road building days of post WW2, have gentle
grades, somewhere around 6 or 7 percent, so that
Yellowstone bound tourists are not needlessly
detained from their preordained appointment at
Geyser Lodge, by suffering the indignity of having
to shift gears. Much of the current road bed to
the west of Baldy Pass is the result of a
reconstruction, finished in 1983 with steeper than
normal grades. It contains long 10 percent grade
sections, and signs along the way try to create
the impression, that you are about to endanger
your life when entering this area. I imagine this
is for the benefit of truck drivers with brake
maintenance issues. The steep sections have very
few turns, and that somehow fits in with the
endless views of the massive dessert below, and
the sweeping carpet quality of the plateau on top.
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01.(mile00.0,5000ft)
START-END WEST: west side of US14A bridge
over Bighorn Lake
02.(mile11.2,5850ft)lower jct with Old
US14A on left
03.(mile16.3,7980ft)upper jct with
OLDUD14A on left
04.(mile21.0,9100ft)jct with FR13,
immediately after Medicine Wheel turnoff
05.(mile26.3,9270ft)jct with FR15 on left
06.(mile27.3,9430ft)TOP: Baldy Pass
07.(mile28.4,9240ft)jct with FR10 Hunt Mtn
Rd on right
08.(mile41.5,8110ft)Burgess Jct
09.(mile44.9,7700ft)low point between
Granite Pass and Cutler Hill, where US14
crosses south Tongue River
10.(mile49.4,8340ft)Cutler Hill s(u)
11.(mile51.1,7970ft)jct with Black
Mountain Road on right
12.(mile67.1,3960ft)START-END EAST: Dayton
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Approaches
From West. The bottom of this profile is
the causeway and bridge across Bighorn Reservoir,
east of Lovell. This is already a scenically
wondrous area. The Shoshone River's meanders are
still visible inside the reservoir. It leaves soft
wetland boundaries, that have formed on its
shores. The first part of the climb is a six mile
stretch, climbing almost imperceptively with a
single slight bend, parallel to the exposed
geology of the Bighorn Mountains. There are quite
a few double trailer trucks on this road. But they
all turn off before the mountains really start.
Most of the shoulders have been rumble stripped,
sometimes down the middle, sometimes so that
riding on the shoulder is possible only with
difficulty. But traffic is light.
Now the road turns up into the alluvial deposits
in front of the range and the climbing becomes
definitely noticeable. Layer cake badland hills
appear to the north east and progress is gauged by
how the perspective on these low hills changes.
At 5770ft is an interesting junction. The old
Dayton - Kayne Highway, the predecessor of the
current US14Alt roadbed branches off to the left,
apparently still paved. I decide to take it.
By the time I have climbed a few hundred feet
higher, I start to congratulate myself on the
choice. While the new US14Alt roadbed makes a
boring, straight and massive climb, visible in all
its totality from my vantage point, my road makes
a hundred turns and delivers new views on itself
and the mountains at every turn. At the Five
Springs Campground and trailhead I find a picnic
table in dark cool shadows for lunch next to a
gurgling stream. After lunch and 300ft higher I
discover that, contrary to what the map on my gps
shows, the road ends here. Apparently a part of
the section that connects back to the regular
US14Alt has not only been abandoned, but destroyed
- and it really does look that way at the ironic
traffic circle at the end of what would be one of
the best cycling roads in the US (assuming that
traffic circles can have an ironic quality).
At this point I think bad thoughts about the
Wyoming highway department. Destroying this road
requires as much stupidity as putting rumble
strips on roads.
But then my mood improves, as I find two separate
groups of tourists in camping vehicles, willing to
sell me water - actually they want to give it to
me, so that I can deal with the 90 plus
temperatures and the additional 1000ft of climbing
after returning to the junction.
The regular old boring US14Alt climbs in a
straight away onto some easily deformable
deposits. Large slumps in the road are the result.
Looking up to the left the new road can be seen
traversing up the mountain with the help of large,
irregularly shaped reinforced walls (picture lower
left). The section over theses ramps is the
steepest and in retrospect also the most
remarkable. It starts at a turnout with a sign,
elucidating on the construction of the new roadbed
in a self- congratulatory manner. The first road
cut resembles a mining operation from the
distance. But then, using only large radius curves
the road manages to negotiate a gate of cliffs and
arrive at a pullout, from which the lowest of the
truck runaway ramps resembles an Olympic ski
jumping ramp. It really is quite an extraordinary
stretch of highway. At about 7800ft another paved
road promises on the map to be the other end of
the Dayton - Kayne Highway. Someday - when it's
about 50 degrees cooler, I want to come back with
a mountain bike and figure out this route.
There are some great views with US14Alt in the
foreground from this point. Here a short
relaxation phase begins, as I traverse along what
appears to be the edge of the plateau. The cool
air from the top is blowing against me, giving
relief from the August heat for the first time. A
parking lot the size of a conference center
contains two informational signs, scattered about
the large area, so that tourists actually drive
their cars from one sign to the other and exit the
car a second time in order to read it. I watched
this several times during my lunch break. The rest
area here is called a "brake cooling area".
After that comes another climbing section up a
straight ramp, with the road turning barely a
single degree, before reaching the next truck
runaway ramp on the other side. When the flowing
green hills on top come into sight, a sign
instructs drivers to "study the sign carefully".
It shows the three ten percent grades with
dramatic horizontal exaggeration. But that is
behind me and I continue to climb in a straight
line.
Now the grade gentrifies and the road enters the
sweeping hills of the high plateau. Several miles
of this lead to a final moderate climb with Hunt
Mountain in the background, forming what resembles
two large breaking waves in this landscape of
gigantic rolling green hills. A poorly defined
trail from the top, leading straight north across
the bare landscape direction sheep herds below, is
open to bicycles.
From
East. (also described upwards) Crossing the
Bighorn Mountains east to west on pavement always
involves two summit points, even if the eastern
summits don't receive much attention. But they are
separated by drops greater than 500ft. On US14
it's Cutler
Hill s(u) and it's included in the profile.
See that page for a description of the right side
of the profile. After that US14 reaches a low
point west of Sibley Lake, before making a small
climb back up to Burgess Junction, which is only
what it says, a junction. From here the profile
stays right and goes up Baldy Pass, while the left
would lead up an even shallower grade to Granite Pass.
The road to Baldy Pass follows a gentle grassy
valley along the North Tongue River. Every couple
of miles a grassy track leads to a fishing area.
Just as often a rocky ledge peaks through the
forested hills. Approaching the top the grade
becomes a little steeper and the landscape turns
to endless grassy hills, spreading out like a cool
high carpet between 9 thousand and 10 thousand
feet in elevation. The pass summit is at a curve
that reveals a stunning far view of the Bighorn
Basin and its rippled badlands below. The top has
the typical-for-Wyoming overly spacious parking
lot. The sign says nothing about Baldy Pass.
Instead it states: "Observation Point 9430ft". But
the name Baldy Pass is used on many maps and
commonly used.
Dayride with this point as highest summit:
COMPLETELY PAVED:
( < sama page | Tunnel Rd(sh?) > )
Baldy Pass x2 : near jct FR15 - US14Alt
> down US14Alt west << turnaround point
on Bighorn Reservoir Causeway > up US14Alt east
<> out and back to end of pavement on Dayton
- Kayne Highway >> up US14 Alt east >
Baldy Pass << turnaround point around 320ft
below summit > Baldy Pass > back to starting
point on FR15: 71.2miles with 7810ft of climbing
in 6:58hrs (Garmin etrex30 m5:15.8.13)
Notes: slow ride with dozens of photo stops on
the descend and more dozens of stops on the
climb to avoid heat stroke. The Garmin device
seems to include short stops in its moving time
measurement. Also includes a very short
nonessential, unpaved section on FR15 (less than
half a mile)
PARTIALLY PAVED / UNPAVED
( < FR17
Paintrock Road s(u) | same page > )
Baldy Pass , Baldy Pass via FR15(sh) , FR15
Burgess Rd s(u) , additional out and back:
camping site on FR159 > FR159 north >
US14Alt east > Burgess Jct > FR15 north west
> FR15 Burgess Rd s(u) > jct FR15 - US14Alt
<> out and back down US14Alt > old
US14Alt > to turnaround point old old US14Alt
at 8420ft >> Baldy Pass > US14Alt east
> back to starting point on FR159: 63.2miles
with 5190ft of climbing in 6:03hrs (Garmin etrex30
M5:15.8.12)
Notes: FR15 Burgess Road crosses the ridge at a
lower point than Baldy Pass, without any
interesting views. It's a deep gravel road -
definitely not recommended. Baldy Pass is a much
better option in all aspects. - Low point of
US14Alt on this ride was at 7880.
The Baldy Pass via Fr15(sh) point is only a
summit point when the western part of US14Alt is
approached by FR15. It is located at snowfence
where Hunt Mountain comes into sight
History
Modern Roads: The east side was opened
first to get mining equipment to the top of the pass
to what was then the Fortunate Mine in the 1890s. In
1912 this access from the east was on its way to
being improved, By this time gold mining was already
history. At the same time the first track up the
western side was established. It was known as the
Salt Road, because it was used to transport salt to
summer pastures.
In 1922 this high pass was planned to become part of
a highway between Sheridan and Greybull. By 1932
this had become a through going road with a width
between 10 to 24ft. It was already paved by the mid
1930s. The original 14A, much of which has now been
destroyed was known as the Dayton-Kane Road
for the two towns it connected. Today you can't find
Kane on the map, because it is located at the bottom
of Big Horn Reservoir.
Construction on the current road bed started
with a bridge over the Bighorn Lake Causeway in the
1960s. It took till 1983 till the road was
completed. The construction has five reinforced
earth walls with an unusual construction, where the
outer retaining wall is made from metal strips.
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